Imagine a city perched on a cliff above the sea. White houses, winding alleys. Balconies and viewpoints that seem to hover over the water. Warm Adriatic breeze. Countless cafés, shops, and restaurants. The scent of freshly baked croissants and hot pizza straight from the oven. This is Polignano a Mare, a town in Puglia, located at the heel of Italy’s boot.

Polignano a Mare was our next destination after spending three days on the Amalfi Coast. The entire route from Sorrento to Salerno was a massive traffic jam, flooded with tourists. In contrast, Puglia was much quieter, less touristy, and mostly visited by Italians themselves. Unlike on the Amalfi Coast, I didn’t hear any American English here; instead, Italian was spoken everywhere.

The town is small but full of life, and even late at night, the streets and restaurants are bustling. We arrived late in the evening after spending the whole day in Ravello on the Amalfi Coast. I was quite sure that Polignano a Mare would greet us with empty streets and complete silence at midnight. But instead, we found ourselves with our suitcases in the middle of the vibrant Italian nightlife, where everything was loud, colorful, and full of lights. Even at night, the streets were as packed with people as Munich’s Viktualienmarkt on a Saturday morning.

And although it was much quieter than Positano, Polignano a Mare was still packed with vacationers, even though most of them were Italians – after all, the city is one of the most popular attractions in Puglia. And I can understand why: the town center, particularly the historic part, which was founded in the 4th century BC, is quite beautiful and spectacular. Polignano a Mare isn’t very big; you can walk through the town center in half an hour. But it has everything you need to get into the vacation spirit and clear your mind: authentic Italian cuisine, wines from the surrounding vineyards, pastries and sweets in all varieties, a beach, and most importantly, the perfect feeling of Dolce far Niente.

POLIGNANO A MARE: A TOWN THAT SMELLS OF CROISSANTS IN THE MORNING

The first thing I noticed the next morning was the scent of freshly baked croissants wafting through the open window into my bedroom. It’s truly lovely to wake up like that. Afterward, you can make a coffee in the kitchen, head to the terrace, and fully wake up there. The croissant smell came from the restaurant directly beneath our apartment. We had rented an apartment right in the heart of the historic old town – I much prefer this over a hotel for the insider feel.

And that’s how every morning started: with coffee on the terrace and sometimes not just with the smell, but actual croissants – you didn’t have to walk far to get them. Across from us, only a meter from our terrace, an Italian grandma would hang her laundry out to dry every day. One of the things I love about Italy is the laundry lines – the huge bed sheets fluttering in the wind are everywhere in Italy! I even made friends with the Italian grandma: at first, she looked skeptically toward our terrace, but after I greeted her, we exchanged a cheerful “Buongiorno” every morning.

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL TOWN ON THE ADRIATIC SEA

In Italy, and especially in Polignano a Mare, everything revolves around food. You should travel to Italy for that alone – it’s a paradise for food lovers. Forget about diets; here, you should eat anything and everything you crave! Fruit and vegetable markets, as well as the local supermarkets with their selection of Italian delicacies, offer a heavenly variety. In the supermarket, I started counting the cheese varieties at the counter and lost track – there were so many! And the best part – in Italy, everything tastes extraordinarily good, even the simple tomato sauce. This is also why I prefer staying in apartments rather than classic hotels when I travel – I can go shopping and cook for myself, which I enjoy just as much as dining out.

However, one thing you should know: Polignano a Mare is really loud. The soundproofing in our hotel was non-existent, and funnily enough, it didn’t bother me at all. On the contrary – the typically loud Italian atmosphere is part of the vacation vibe! Even when I was in bed late at night, I could still hear loud Italian conversations from the street. I even heard the ice cream seller’s cart rumbling over the cobblestones and the sound of forks and knives being sorted into drawers in the restaurant below. You might think it would be impossible to fall asleep with all this noise, but I slept like a baby.

Polignano a Mare is definitely not for those who need peace and quiet. But it’s the perfect place to immerse yourself in the cozy, lively, and loud Italian lifestyle. Everywhere you look, there are porcelain shops where you can buy authentic dishes or decorations. I brought some back, and these travel trophies now adorn my kitchen – I have a whole collection of porcelain decor from all over Europe, which reminds me of my travels in Munich.

SIGHTS IN POLIGNANO A MARE

Polignano a Mare has plenty of sights to offer. One of the most impressive is the Roman bridge, built around the 1st century AD, which is a hallmark of the city. This bridge is even part of the Via Appia, the most important ancient road of Rome. But it’s not just the bridge that’s worth seeing – the entire town with its white alleys and well-preserved old bastions is a unique attraction. It’s best to get here by car or rent one locally to see everything.

Not far from Polignano a Mare, there are several must-see places! I was totally surprised when I realized that in Puglia, you can find something special almost every 20 kilometers while driving around. For example, Alberobello – a real hobbit village made up of small houses with pointed roofs – ultra spectacular! Check out my blog post about it! Or Ostuni – the white city situated on a hill, with its alleys and olive groves stretching all the way to the Adriatic Sea. And just 13 kilometers from Polignano a Mare lies Monopoli, a charming town that looks like a medieval seaside castle with its fortress walls and cannons.

Puglia doesn’t have as many beautiful beaches – Corsica or Sardinia with their sandy shores are a paradise for beach lovers. But if you want to see and experience history, culture, and nature – then Puglia is absolutely the right destination. In the 10 days we spent here, we were on the go every day, and there was always something new to see. I photographed everything, and my hard drives are full of footage from Puglia. I’ll be happy to share more with you next time!

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